We were finally there after 24 hours of transport to Bangkok!!! What did we do? We slept (or tried to). We slept 5 hours at the Shanghai Mansion in Chinatown and woke to a nice English/Chinese breakfast. Yes, menu consisted of English and Chinese breakfast items, both of which we ate and enjoyed, particularly the dumplings.
After breakfast, we were out the door we went and what hit me immediately was the heat, traffic, and smells. Was hot at 95 degrees Fahrenheit . The traffic was that of the streets of Manhattan but with more scooters and tuk tuks (three wheeled auto rickshaws). And constant food smells- good and bad. On we walked until we stopped at a cross walk and waited for 5 minutes for the walk sign to change. Well, it never changed and a number of locals and tourist alike weaved in and out of oncoming traffic to cross. When in Rome… held my breath and did the same and I am still here writing this.
Sweat drenched and eager, our first stop, Wat Pho, the largest collection of Buddha figures in Thailand. The temple complex is known to be the oldest in Thailand dating back to the 1700’s. It also houses the famous Reclining Buddha, laying the length of the temple at 150 ft. A Buddha in this position represents Buddha in his last illness about to enter parinirvana. Entering each of the temples, it is customary to remove shoes and cover oneself (no bare shoulders or legs). This made for one sweaty afternoon of long sleeves and pants. Also visited Phra Ubosot, the main hall for performing Buddhist rituals and the most sacred, Phra Maha Chedi Si Rajakarn, consisting of four chedis which are dedicated to the first four Chakri kings, each holding the ashes of past kings and Buddha figures.
Across the street from Wat Pho is the Grand Palace which is still home to ceremony and monarchy. King Rama I wanted his own dynasty after defeating King Taksin of Thonburi and begun construction of the Grand Palace in 1782. The King used the Grand Palace as a main residence and seat of governance until the 1930’s. Today, the palace is occasionally used for special ceremonies but is also the most popular tourist spot in Bangkok. We were shocked at how many people there were! It was like Disneyland but with no order. I felt like cattle being pushed through a cattle run. Lines to get in, lines to take off shoes, lines into the temple. We got a few pics and escaped quickly.
After leaving the Grand Palace, a tuk tuk was readily available and we happily took our escape from the crowds. While fun, we soon learned that we were very much overcharged ($300 baht, $8 us) for the ride. However, it was so worth the quick go-cart-like ride back to the hotel in traffic ridden Bangkok. Jet lagged and hot, a nap was needed. I took the best afternoon nap I’ve had in a while. We I awoke, we quickly got ready for a night on the town.
Dressed and ready to go, we got smart and pre-negotiated the cost for the tuk tuk for our ride to dinner. Great thing about the tuk tuk is that it can fly through traffic and fit in small spaces meant for motorcycles. Of course, sometimes communication with taxi and tuk tuk drivers can be difficult. Also learned that they don’t read maps and rarely speak a lick of English. We were dropped four blocks for the restaurant and hiked it in.
Nahm was a restaurant I’d read great things about back home. Through some last minute AMEX Platinum concierge service, we were able to score a last minute 7pm reservation. When we arrived promptly at 7, we were one of the first patrons. Right, I thought, we Americans are the early diners. So on we went ordering some delicious cocktails and opting for the set menu. Unlike other set or tasting menus, this menu allows you to select items off the la carte menu to create your own. First came the canapés, of which were given all to try. Canapés were followed by our selected mains: cured scallop salad with lemongrass, mint and ginger; preserved shrimp and crab simmered in coconut cream with deep fried prawns and vegetables; coconut and turmeric curry of blue swimmer crab with calamansi lime; stir-fried Wagyu beef with charred onions oyster sauce and thai basil. We each got our own soup, which at this point, I couldn’t finish mine. I had the servers box it up the coconut and oxtail soup immediately. After all, I had to make room for dessert. I selected the Thai cupcakes which were served with a tropical ice- very creative and delicious approach to the entire meal! Super pleased with the whole experience. We got a cab back to the hotel and learned that cabs are cheaper than tuk tuks. I was happy to arrive back to our hotel, a sanctuary in the middle of a crazy city. With a great day behind us, I fell asleep as soon as my head hit the pillow.
Epicurean Wanderlust 